| As solid wood becomes more of a disappearing
resource, products such as processed wood (OSB), plastic
composites (newer decking materials), and metal is going
to become more common place. With the introduction of these
materials, comes proper yet differing installation techniques.
Unfortunately some of these techniques are not sought after
by their installers. Also some installation criteria will
be developed as problems present themselves. Along with
this will come an evolution of material, knowledge and
skill.
Metal framed buildings have been constructed in the
southern regions for years. The popularity of metal as
a framing material was desired in these climates due
to high risk of termite and rot damage. Metal studs were
more prevalent in commercial construction, but have since
shifted to residential. It is estimated that between
10,000 and 15,000 metal framed homes were built in 1993,
and that number is expected to more than triple by 1996.
As the use of metal studs spread to the northern regions,
some problems have arisen. Many carpenters and builders
have not had the proper education or training with respect
to proper installation methods. These are a few areas
to inspect for structural inadequacy:
- Proper fastening techniques to areas such as roof
trusses, are necessary using techniques such as, metal
tie straps or spot welds. If the trusses are only merely
screwed to the top plate, high winds could lift the
roof system from the house.
- Exterior and load bearing walls should have a heavier
gauge steel channel, than nonload bearing walls. Bridging
in the wall cavities, can help to prevent stud movement.
Floor systems that use channel steel require bridging
to prevent racking and crushing to the web. Bridging
should be used in the center of the spans and also below
load bearing points, such as where a load bearing wall
rests on a main girder. Another area to reinforce would
be a parallel wall bay. This could cause sagging between
the joist unless properly supported. This can be supported
by installing bridging 24" oc., or installing two parallel
joists offset from the wall, one on each side.
Another point of contention is thermal conductivity
in the northern regions. This is where outside air temperature
is transferred through the metal stud to the inside and
warmer air. This is referred to as thermal bridging,
resulting in condensation forming inside the wall. This
can be evident by streaking showing through the drywall.
The streaks are lines reflecting location of the metal
framing in the wall, and may be vertical or horizontal.
Frost and mold can form inside the wall cavity as well.
Metal conducts heat and cold 300 times faster than wood.
This drops the R-value of the wall significantly. There
is research being conducted on proper remediation and
installation techniques to deal with this issue.
This situation can be aggravated by using hardboard
wall sheathing such as oriented strand board. One recommended
procedure is to install extruded polystyrene foam over
the studs on the cold side to reduce the chance of a
condensation problem. This is referred to as a thermal
break. One problem with this method is that the fasteners
conduct the cold to the stud and the problem can still
exist.
Another method of prevention being studied is the use
of horizontal "hats." This is a channel ran across the
studs that break the thermal bridge. Some companies have
developed studs that have an opened webbing, as opposed
to solid. These studs are supposed to significantly reduce
thermal bridging.
Any areas susceptible to air infiltration should be
caulked or spray foamed. There is other research going
on including the use of wooden washers and other methods.
If these conditions are not rectified, the condensation
could lead to rusting and possible failure of the metal
studs and the walls. Further evaluation and monitoring
is recommended.
Eventually a system will be worked out so metal studs
and applications will have guidelines to prevent such
problems. A professional should be consulted, if you
suspect a problem. |